The Science and Culture of Surfing

David is a world-leading Professor of Coastal Geomorphology based at the University of Melbourne, Australia. He grew up on the beaches of eastern Australia and was an active volunteer with Surf Life Saving Australia for over a decade conducting many rescues and preventative actions on the beaches of Sydney and Wollongong. He has received numerous awards including the 2020 Australian Museum Eureka Prize for Innovation in Citizen Science. His multidisciplinary approach to understanding the coast has led to regular media interviews for a global audience from print and digital media to mass-broadcast television.