Kook What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave
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Form:Einzelkauf Download
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Sprache:Englisch
15,24 €
inkl. gesetzl. MwSt.Beschreibung
Produktdetails
Format
ePUB
Kopierschutz
Ja
Family Sharing
Ja
Text-to-Speech
Ja
Erscheinungsdatum
13.07.2010
Verlag
Free PressSeitenzahl
336 (Printausgabe)
Dateigröße
734 KB
Sprache
Englisch
EAN
9781439171813
With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The River and The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discoveryof surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean's beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life.
Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars
Winner of the National Outdoor Book Award for Literature
Having resolved to master a big-hollow wavethat is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredderin a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits.
As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.
Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars
Winner of the National Outdoor Book Award for Literature
Having resolved to master a big-hollow wavethat is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredderin a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits.
As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.
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